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WILDFIRE SMOKE TAINT grapes may add some bold tastes |
I came across a fascinating article in
Wine Spectator
(June 15, 2018) that made me salivate. The article focused on the
wildfires of California, specifically Northern California, in October
2017 that had vineyards struggling with grapes that had not yet been
harvested for wine production and were exposed to the fire’s smoke.
Smoke taint. That is the smoky flavors grapes will pick up
from traveling smoke gases and particles
that become airborne with the
wind. Even if a vineyard did not experience the fire directly, it can
be affected by the traveling smoke. That is the key though: a vineyard
may or may not contain smoke taint in the grapes.
Lab Research
There were many California wineries that sent grape and juice samples
to labs for analysis to determine if compounds indicative of smoke
exposure existed (probability is said to be 70% with testing).
Specifically, they test for the primary volatile phenols present in
smoke. This research and technique have its base in extensive research
done in Australia who experience bushfires more commonly than
Californians experience wildfires.
If these volatile phenols are found in the sample, this means the
waxy cuticle of the grape skin absorbed the compounds forming
glycosides. At this stage, the phenols are not detectable by smell or
taste. Once the fermentation begins, the acids break down the bond
making the phenols volatile again. Additionally, our own mouths can
breakdown remaining glycosides releasing the smoky flavors when the
wines are consumed.
What to Do
Though there is a risk to white wines, these tend to be less
susceptible to smoke taint since most are not fermented on their
skins. Wines fermenting in tanks and barrels during the fires also
appear protected by the layer of carbon dioxide that forms.
For those wines found to have the smoke taint, the vineyard is faced with options:
- minimize the skin contact by adjusting the grape press
- use lighter toasted oak barrels for the fermentation
- bottle the tainted wine under a different label
- sell the wine on the bulk market to be blended into an inexpensive wine
- sell the wine to distilleries
BBQ Umami
I have another idea! Along the lines of selling the wine to another
user, why not market this to Chefs, cooks, and barbecue enthusiasts who
understand and desire those charry undertones. Think about the sauces,
marinades, glazes, and assorted other uses these tainted wines could be
used in.
Think about how many people use handheld food smokers to get a smoky
undertone to liquids, whether a cocktail, syrup, juice, even water.
With a bottle of this tainted wine, blooming with an ashy component, you
have ready-made umami for those of us searching for the perfect
ingredient to bring a balanced smoky undertone to a recipe.
Here’s my suggestion: think about contacting one of these vineyards
to see if they would be willing to sell you some unmarked bottles. They
wouldn’t have to label them with their pristine brand, just sell it as
is to those of us who love that undertone.
Some of the vineyards with tainted wine: The Hess Collection, Jackson Family Wines, Jarvis Wines.
I don’t know about you, but I’m sure going to try to get my hands on
at least a couple of bottles of the smoke-tainted wine as my recipes are
just waiting for this special ingredient!